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An Insider's Guide to Notting Hill Carnival With George Brown

Steel bands. Carnival colours. Jerk smoke in the air. Notting Hill Carnival is turning 60, bringing West London streets to life once again for Europe’s biggest celebration of Caribbean culture. As George Brown puts it, “it’s loud, it’s hot, and it’s busy, so first of all, prepare yourself; carnival can be a lot.”

Read on to understand the festival’s deeper history, the sights, sounds and flavours you won’t want to miss, and why Notting Hill Carnival is unlike any other weekend in London – with George as your guide.

Tell us a bit about yourself and what you do.

Hey, I’m George, I’m a multi-disciplinary creative focusing on film and photography, hailing from Wigan but living in London. My work can be diverse, but the core of it, it is using those creative skills to tell compelling stories, communicate ideas, and support organisations across the creative and cultural industries as well as the third sector. Growing up in the North-West with both British and Jamaican heritage creates a unique perspective to witness the pushes and pulls of the world from. So when it comes to Notting Hill Carnival – a celebration built by people who also carried more than one home with them – it’s a place I feel a real connection with.

“Carnival isn’t just something I love being a part of; it’s something we have to do to keep our culture and history alive.”

Notting Hill Carnival means something different to everyone. What are your earliest Carnival memories, and what keeps you coming back year after year?

It sounds annoyingly esoteric, but it feels like I’ve been going to carnival since before I was born. I grew up going to Manchester, Leeds and Huddersfield carnivals at such a young age that the memories are just flashes of colour, stomach-rumbling bass and the smoke from the jerking repurposed oil drums… and maybe other smells my young brain wasn’t clued into yet. My Dad was the Manchester Carnival director, so even though I was growing up in a town where that culture wasn’t prominent, carnival and Caribbean culture was still a huge part of my life. He would come into my nursery to teach the kids about carnival and its African roots. Things run deep, and it’s that history that keeps me connected. Carnival isn’t just something I love being a part of;  it’s something we have to do to keep our culture and history alive.

If you were taking someone to Carnival for the first time, what are the spots you’d make sure they don’t miss?

As much as it helps to go in with a game plan, you can’t help but go with the flow because good vibes are everywhere and internet connection can be a myth. 

Here’s my top spots:

J’ouvert — Kicks off around sunrise on Sunday –  steel bands and drummers emerge onto Ladbroke Grove well before the crowds arrive. The name means ‘opening of the day,’ and it carries some of the oldest and rawest roots of carnival tradition. Expect paint, powder and oil, so leave your new clothes at home.

The Parade — The beating heart of Carnival. The masqueraders spend all year on those costumes, marching for miles to the beat of soca all the way to the judging zone at Westbourne Park, where they give it everything. Look out for some of the traditional mas characters too, which can have their roots in African tradition way before carnival as we now know it.

Steel Pan — Oil drums shaped, crafted and tuned into magically melodic instruments. A different, older and more harmonic vibration than the sound systems. Panorama on the Saturday evening at Pleasance Park is the place to be.

Sound Systems — Over 30 of them, each with its own corner, crowd and genre. This is where you find your pocket of Carnival. Wander until the bass hits right. You might even catch some huge artists performing, particularly at Rampage.

Food — Follow the smoke and the queues. Jerk chicken, curry goat, rice and peas, festival, a cold drink. The food is as rich in its own history as it is flavour. Take it somewhere green and actually sit for ten minutes if you can – you’ll need it.

Carnival is known for its energy, but it’s also deeply rooted in community and heritage. What do you think visitors often overlook about its cultural significance?

That ‘celebration’ and high spirits are themselves an act of resistance. Notting Hill Carnival is a beautiful thing that emerged from real pain – the Caribbean community in the area faced years of racism, violence and disparity, shaken to the core by the murder of Kelso Cochrane. The history is unsettling, but NHC holds that truth alongside the beauty of our resilience and existence. By practising our culture so loudly, so vibrantly, so obnoxiously, we remind ourselves and everybody that this is our home, and we shine beautifully here. NHC contains echoes of our collective history going back generations – we practise these traditions in dance, masquerade, food and music to remember where we’ve come from and guide where we’re going. It achieves its goal of bringing communities together – as long as you understand the heritage and bring good vibes, to me you’re welcome.

For people looking to experience Carnival like a local, what’s your ultimate insider itinerary – from the first sound system of the day to the perfect afterparty?

Okay, so you’re ready fi di road? It goes without saying there are many different ways to do Carnival. Saturday starts things off easier as we go into full swing for Sunday’s family day and ramp up to Monday, which is more adult-focused. My real insider tip is to genuinely connect with the people, and it will connect with you – maybe someone will slide you an invite to their afters shubz. If you’re like me and you like a mix of things, check out my ultimate Carnival Sunday insiders itinerary HERE.

 

What’s your Carnival POA this year?

With NHC now being in its 60th year, I think documenting it in this moment in time is going to be really important. It’s evolved so much, and how things are represented and what’s chosen to be shown/retold can still be problematic. So while my hips are moving, my hands will be shooting, capturing what I see in a way I hope is true to what’s being felt. At the same time, keeping an eye out for things that might not be as widely known about or aren’t practised as much at carnival today. I did have an idea to photograph every sound system, so we’ll see how far I get with that before the rhythm takes me. 

 

Make Hox Shepherd’s Bush your Carnival base this year with our Weekend Pass room offer and join us for the afters on Sunday 31 August in the lobby, with a Greensleeves Records pop-up shop, DJs, cocktails and Chet’s BBQ 7pm – 11pm.

Find out more.

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